Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
